The error code remains stored in the control but once the problem is corrected, it does not effect the operation of the washer. To stop the flashing and beeping, the customer may touch the Pause Cancel button. When a failure occurs, the washer stops or pauses and the control beeps and flashes the five indicator lights to tell the customer that a failure has occurred. In the Good Models line, the control signals the failure code by flashing the five indicator lights of Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, Final Spin and Control for the first number or letter after the E and the Start indicator light for the second number or letter after the E. If the failure is something that the customer can correct (such as the water faucets being turned off), the washer will operate normally the next time it is started. The control will beep and the Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, Final Spin and Control indicator lights will flash.Įxample: E14.
In the Better Models line, the failure codes will appear in the display as an E followed by two numbers, a number and a letter or two letters.
A shaft and bearing kit is available from your parts dealer, including a special lithium grease used to lubricate the socket. (Figure WS-5) (Note: some models have a bracket that holds the ball down in the socket this bracket is removed from the rear.) With the drum out, you can now replace the ball shaft and bearing socket. If you are simply replacing the belt, slip the new belt around the drum and put the cabinet front right back on.Īs soon as you have removed and set aside the cabinet front, lift the rear end of the drum and the ball shaft will disengage from its bearing socket. Remember, as you remove the cabinet front, you are removing the drum front support, and the drum will be free-floating. Disconnect the door switch as you lift the cabinet front off. Then remove the two screws holding on the bottom of the cabinet front (four, on some models.) Next, remove the two screws at the top of the cabinet front panel. Remove the one screw holding the blower suction duct to the blower housing.
And don't forget to check the insulators and replace them if cracked or broken. Start from the middle of the element and work outward. It is better to leave it a little short, and work it to the correct length while in place.
(Figure WS-2) If the screws in the plate appear to be ripping it, you need to replace not only that plate, but also the rear drum ball shaft and bearing, as described in section 7-4.
Bearing and glide kits are available from your parts dealer.ĥ) Look at the circular center plate inside the rear of the dryer drum. Replace the rear drum bearing or scrape off the old glides and felt seal and glue new ones on. Remove the front of the machine and drum as described in section 7-4. The heater element can be tested by lifting the cabinet top, but changing it requires drum removal.Ĥ) A metal-to-metal scrubbing sound, caused when the front drum glides wear off, or the rear drum support wears out. To access the gas burner, remove the kickplate as described in section 7-4. Replace the idler arm as described in section 7-3.ģ) Heating problems as described in Chapter 2. Replace as described in section 7-4.Ģ) A loud growling noise, caused when the idler pulley seizes. The most common problems in these machines are as follows:ġ) Broken belts.